Trans-dimensional Photographs [of ETs] from Emery Smith

Transdimensional Photography, AKA: TDP    By: Emery Smith    19March2012

NOTE from Deb:  Emery does regular meditations, including the mantra meditation of Dr. Greer.  His ‘connection’ to ETs is the foundation of his ability to get significant photographs.  Photographers should always be in a meditative trance and be ‘inviting’ the ETs to appear on their photographs.

First off, lets shut off all three-dimensional thinking. Turn on your multidimensional switch and pick up your digital SLR camera. That’s your first couple of steps. Follow this with awareness, you must be aware, be conscious. You probably thought the first thing I would be telling you is that you need to have your ISO set at 3200 or higher, well that’s later on, first we must turn on your setting to prepare you. The camera is just a conduit for the messages to come through, they could be put there in the photo, or from within the camera, or the camera could be used to help them bend light to get this message across, which in this case, is in the form of a photograph.

My name is Emery and I have been asked to write a protocol and give some helpful tips to what I call “Transdimensional Photography” or “TDP”. Our eyes capture about 24-30 frames a second when relayed to our brain. Have you ever seen a slow motion video, for most photographers they have, watching a bullet pierce an apple at 3000 feet per second, pretty extraordinary right. Well we could never see a bullet with our human eyes, but with technology we can slow it down and see it, imagine what else is out there that we don’t see because our eyes are just not engineered that way to see everything around us. Every MIT Professor know we have an even greater capability than that, which is public information, they have already developed a camera that captures one trillion frames per second. They say it is used for capturing photons in action, you know particles of energy in the form of light, and that is basically what we do in the field using our digital SLRs. I mention photons because a photon is particle of light and it is photons that are responsible for our images. Photon energy is also what is released when any or most encounters happen, this could be visually and non visually, and I will get into that in a moment, which is then recorded sometimes in your camera and on your photograph. I would also like to point out that photons are electromagnetic and emit frequencies. This being said, a high energy of light like gamma rays, x-rays, and ultraviolet rays cannot be seen by the eye without special filters or technology, but they still emit a very high amount energy from the photons. Than you have the visible spectrum red through violet, violet being the highest energy in the spectrum and red the lowest. We see many colors throughout the spectrum in our documented classified pictures, which also gives great significance to what is actually happening at the exact time during the CE-5. Lower frequencies of energy such as infrared, microwave, and radio are right below the color red and give off the weakest amount photonic energy. We too give off photons of energy, we are a body of light, our DNA has light, our pineal gland can store light, so what I am getting at is everything is light we are all the light, we are all one, we are just at different frequencies in this light cascade. If you could however be on the same frequency, as lets say a multidimensional being, you could ask through your own light if you may take a picture. You could also ask in you mind, “If there is anything you would like me to share with the group as I take this picture feel free to do so, because we are ready”. It is the acknowledgement of that ET, that craft, or that multicosmical-interdimensional being of light that sets the stage for contact, after all your sharing the same light. Seems like your ready, lets begin.

 I prefer Nikon, I have been an amateur wildlife photographer for seventeen years and before that my family was big on pictures. My work has been purchased by Discovery Channel, National Geographic and a few others, and shown worldwide both still and video, however none of that prepared me for my last three years of Interdimensional Photographer with Dr. Steven Greer on his expeditions, this was no longer point and shoot. Directional light, light waves, scintillating lights, light rods, light probes, light quakes, and invisible light, to name a few, where quite honestly new to me to photograph. A light would go off in the center of the circle, a 45 degree span of the circle observed this, however I did not see a thing. I realized it was time to get creative, it was time to listen, it was time to meditate, but at the same time be aware of the science of light. If you have multiple cameras it is important to have them spread out to cover the site. One thing I learned very quickly is that they are everywhere, all around us at any given moment. You must bond with your team and listen very attentively, to not only what your experiencing, but to also listen and feel what they are experiencing, because if you do so, you can X-Y-Target photograph. You are one axis and the other person is on the other axis, you’re locked on and follow where they meet, that is the target, time to photograph. It is important  to watch what everyone on the team is looking at, listen to instruction and direction. You must remember this is definitely not about you, there is no ego, your on a team and they are expecting you to document, and as photographers we owe it to them, the planet, and the multiverse to do so, how exciting!

     The first thing is to set your correct time and date for that location, wherever that may be on the planet. If you have a GPS function turn it on, if you don’t you can buy an adapter, which records that info as well to the picture. ISO controls can be set anywhere from 400-6400 if your camera allows, I shoot at 3200, most of the time. The settings we are going to discuss now are during a new moon environment- outdoors.  You must have a tripod, unless you’re a retired Special Forces sniper, I was on the rifle team and was awarded the Expert badge, so was my father and his father, however I still use a tripod. You will need to invest in a remote control shutter activation device. They are under $10 and need to be wireless, you may use a wired one but you still must be perfectly still because the vibration can travel up the cord and distort your picture. We want to reduce all vibration and human contact to the camera if possible. That means looking down at your tripod to make sure its not between your neighbor’s chair, legs, or feet. Exposure time should be kept from 3-5 second range as we said earlier a lot of the bright flashes of light come in so fast the human eye can not pick it up. Leaving the shutter open for longer than that could cause more pixilated pictures with camera anomalies. Longer exposures also catch star travel and planet travel, which also may distort the object that you may be intending to get.  You will need to take daylight pictures of the site before you start your CE-5, as a reference for later on, of course always note where your directions are, North, South, East and West. This is a time saver and lifesaver when you are back home editing or recreating a follow up scene documentation of a being or craft landing. If you choose to take longer exposures make an announcement that your shutter is open so persons do not stand up and walk in front or across your cameras field of view.

I have seen many photographs of people claiming they have an ET on their 2.5 inch display just to find out the next day it was Bob in a ski mask on the HD screen of the Apple display. These are all normal mistakes while taking photos for the first time of Extraterrestrials and their beautiful craft, its very exciting experience and its very easy to get caught up in the moment, I for one was very guilty of this in the beginning, it’s a humbling experience. You should always have a lens cloth, prepare for dust, dirt, rain, and snow, yes ice. I do recall one night atop mount Shasta the temperature reading was 14 degrees and a beautiful golden ship appeared I snapped the pic and Voila! I had captured what seemed to be a Unidentified Frozen Object, it looked like a fuzzy starburst. There had been ice completely covering my lens and the picture was distorted. A plastic cover for your camera should also be purchased for the surprise of inclement weather, a good back up however would be a plastic grocery bag, it’s free and its lightweight and can double as a trash receptacle. Batteries, batteries, and more batteries, always have at least one back up battery, no excuses. Equipment energy shrinkage is quite common on these expeditions, it falls under WSFM, be prepared. Lens covers are great whether they are clear or UV, I prefer clear for night. I do not recommend tinted. I do however recommend a infrared filter if your budget allows, you would use this during the day and could capture some amazing craft giving off low frequency light, that without the filter you could not see. You will need a low intensity red lit head lamp, these are also very inexpensive $10 or so, this allows the photographer to free up his hands without having to call on your neighbor to help hold a light, it distracts the entire group, you must be silent and stealthy. Make sure it has an easy to get to on/off switch and that it feels very comfortable and can be worn over a hat. If your camera requires tools you need to have all the tools available on you to fix things in the field. I always carry a small waterproof box with mini screwdrivers and a multifunction tool, you will also find my SD cards and batteries in there as well. Remember you’re a one being operation with your camera, you should not have to disturb anyone else. I also see people show up with brand new million dollar cameras right out of the box without ever reading the instructions, my favorite was a middle aged woman who said no matter how hard she tried she couldn’t get this stupid beach picture off her display, the reason is because it was a sticker that came with the camera that covered the display, she had never used the camera before.

A CSETI expedition is very serious, I’m flattered you bought the most expensive camera money can buy, it shows dedication, however, to ask me five minutes before we sit down on the first night how to operate it…. well lets just say I will help you take the stickers off for now. It is important to take a class if you never used an Digital SLR. You can not learn that type of camera in one week, in the dark much less the daylight, without some training, even the most experienced photographers need to learn placement of the new buttons to make quick adjustments in the field just by feel alone, I know I do and you should to. This also helps when your shooting something through the view finder you don’t want to move the camera away from your face and look down at it just to turn your ISO higher or exposure lower, know your camera, keep your eye on the shot before you loose it. Prepare as much as you can in camera setting before you get to the field, doing so ensures a less stressful and more enjoyable time.

My favorite is “How do I turn off my display?” this is quite simple if you know your camera, at night with someone else’s camera it could be quite time consuming and a task. You always want the display off before you go out at night into the field. The photons that come off that display on a dark moonlit night quite frankly rivals some space shuttle luminosity lift offs. It blinds everyone first of all, it also gives a false sense that something had just flashed, If you don’t know what I am talking about, I am referring to the display light that most Digital SLR cameras emit after a pictures is recorded. There is also a front focus light before and after a picture is taken and this also illuminates. This light can all be shut off in your main menu; your displays need to be off as well. If you have a camera that has a light that will not shut off a small piece of blue painter tape works well doubled up over the light. Extra memory cards are also a must, more GB, the better, if your camera has high MP well your going to need more space to store it. A 16g SD card does it for me per expedition when using my Nikon D70, D80, D90, and D7000.  My new Nikon D800 needs a higher capacity such as a class 10 32GB SD card. This is because a class 10 32GB SD card has a faster transfer rate 10MB transfer rate and a 45MB record rate. This is helpful for high megapixel cameras. Shooting in RAW or JPEG is also something you need to think about. RAW files are of the highest quality for editing, but also the slowest and most space consuming. I stick with large JPEG files, because I don’t have time to use a program and not everyone can read RAW, believe it or not.

When I email my colleagues and or VIPs its important they can download and view immediately. RAW is also not as sharp as JPEG and for what I shoot I need it sharp, crystal clear, it also seems to be lower in contrast which gives the picture a flatter washed out look. Yes you could always shoot in Raw and convert to JPEG. Than comes editing and adding contrast and all that jazz but now it even takes even more time and I have manipulated the picture, which is not taken kindly to some scientist or the general public, especially when your trying to prove something. JPEG higher contrast, sharper, and readable-any computer can read it, very reliable for TDP. It does not matter if your running 6.1MP camera or 36.3MP camera they all take pictures and they all work for TDP. My favorite pictures were taken with a 6.1MP to 12.6MP camera as of today, which could change tomorrow.

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